Solid "Standard" Settings (PLA, good all-round)
- Layer: 0.2 mm
- Line width: Auto or ~nozzle diameter
- Wall thickness: 2–3 lines
- Infill: 10–20% (Gyroid/Grid)
- Top/Bottom: 4–6 layers
- Speed: 50 mm/s (starting point)
- Retract: Direct drive ~0.6–1.2 mm / Bowden ~3–6 mm (guidelines)
- Support: only when needed, "Tree Supports" often look better
4) Next level: Calibrations that really pay off
4.1 E-steps / Extrusion calibration (only when needed)
When dimensions are way off or extrusion is visibly wrong.
Mark 100 mm of filament, extrude, measure, correct in firmware menu.
4.2 Flow / Extrusion multiplier
Print a "Single Wall" test or flow test in the slicer
Goal: wall thickness matches the intended line width
4.3 Temperature tower
Print a temp tower, choose the zone with:
- minimal stringing
- clean bridging
- good surface quality
4.4 Pressure Advance / Linear Advance (advanced, but very effective)
Reduces blobs and corner bulging
Depending on printer/slicer: "Pressure Advance" (Klipper) or "Linear Advance" (Marlin)
5) Advanced printing techniques (with concrete "how-to" steps)
Technique 1: Clean overhangs & bridging
- Fan high (PLA 100%)
- Lower temperature slightly
- Set bridging speed in slicer
- Orient the part so overhangs are shorter
Technique 2: Support only where needed
- Try "On build plate only" support
- Tree supports for organic shapes
- Enable support interface (easier to remove)
- Keep support density low, interface slightly higher
Technique 3: Strong functional parts (mechanical load)
- Material: PETG/ASA/Nylon depending on application
- Don't overdo infill: prefer more walls (4–6), more top/bottom
- Orient the part so forces don't separate layers (Z-direction is weaker)
Technique 4: Tolerances & fits (screws, snap fits)
- Print a small tolerance test piece first
- Guidelines (FDM): Press fit: ~0.1–0.2 mm · Snap fit: ~0.2–0.4 mm · Clearance fit: ~0.4–0.6 mm
- Use Horizontal Expansion / XY Compensation in slicer
Technique 5: Multi-part prints, pins & alignment
- Split parts that would otherwise need lots of support
- Plan for alignment pins (dowel pins)
- Gluing: PLA: super glue / epoxy · PETG: epoxy better · ABS/ASA: acetone welding possible
Technique 6: Multi-color (without AMS/MMU)
- In slicer: "Pause at height" (M600 or Pause)
- Change filament
- Purge/prime at the side (wipe tower or skirt)
Technique 7: Surface finish
- Sanding: 220 → 400 → 800
- Primer/filler primer, then paint
- PLA: heat can warp it, be careful
6) Material upgrade: When to use which filament?
PLA (beginner)
Easy, stable, nice finish · not ideal for heat/sun in the car
PETG (all-round functional)
Tougher, more heat resistant · more stringing, needs clean Z-offset
ABS/ASA (outdoor/heat)
Needs enclosure, warping possible · ASA is more UV-stable than ABS
TPU (flexible)
Print slowly, low retraction · direct drive is much easier
If you run into problems with your first 3D print or get poor results, you'll find help as always in our Troubleshooting section.